Vitaly Abalakov

Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (1906 to 1986) was a Soviet chemical engineer, mountaineer and inventor, and the brother of the alpinist Yevgeniy Abalakov. He made the first Soviet ascent of Lenin Peak in 1934, climbed it twice more, and in 1936 reached the summit of Khan Tengri, where he lost several fingers on one arm and a third of a foot. He is credited with a range of climbing equipment innovations, including camming devices in the 1930s and the Abalakov thread, also called the V-thread, a gearless anchor for ice climbing. In 1938 he and members of his team were arrested by the NKVD on accusations that included promoting western mountaineering techniques and spying for Germany, and he was held under investigation until the case was closed in February 1940. His honours included the Order of Lenin in 1957.